Hydraulics

You should swap out the fluid every year right before winter begins. Doing this ahead of the cold season stops moisture from condensing inside the system while the plow sits unused during the warmer months. Taking care of this quick maintenance task safeguards internal components against rust and pump failure, guaranteeing your equipment stays dependable all winter long.

Here is a video on how to change the hydraulic fluid.

Avoid combining different hydraulic oils. Mixing formulas can spark chemical conflicts that create sludge, deteriorate seals, and ruin your pump. Stick exclusively to the manufacturer-approved fluid designed for harsh sub-zero temperatures that resist moisture to protect your warranty and keep your equipment running smoothly.

Sluggish performance or unusual operation typically stems from low fluid volume, trapped air pockets in the hydraulic hoses, or a blocked filter. If topping off the fluid reservoir fails to fix the problem, head over to your nearest certified FISHER® dealer for expert diagnostics and repair.

It’s usually due to debris in the solenoid valve or a burned-out electrical coil. Because these technical components call for specialized diagnosis, reach out to your nearest dealer to schedule a professional evaluation and fix.

Check the fluid for a cloudy, milky look (moisture contamination) or look out for tiny metallic flakes (internal grinding or wear). Spotting either sign means you need to drain the system right away and reach out to your dealer for professional guidance.

Quick Guide to Flushing Your Unit:

1. Disconnect the hoses, lift the hydraulic unit clear of the headgear, and unplug all wiring harnesses along with the plow module.
2. Unbolt the electric motor, hydraulic fittings, and valve coils from the main assembly.
3. Gently pull the cartridge valves out of the block housing.
4. Remove the quill assembly, take out the four reservoir screws, and pull free the internal magnet, pump, and filter.
5. Wash all components thoroughly in a parts washer, using a pressurized stream to blast out every internal channel inside the valve block.
6. Blow away all remaining moisture with a compressed air gun to ensure the block and every individual part are bone dry.

Note: If you discover contamination inside the main unit, you must also tear down, clean, and flush all hydraulic cylinders to guarantee the entire system is completely free of debris.

Watch this in-depth video to see the expertise required to thoroughly flush and clean a hydraulic system. It is recommended to contact your local dealer for professional services.